SERENA KELSCH
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A Few Days in Nairobi

1/29/2012

5 Comments

 
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Swahili word of the week: mzungu.  Mzungu literally means "rich man" but the common meaning is "white person" in Kenya.  Kenyans are very friendly and chatty, and whether I was walking or riding in a car down the street this week, every few minutes I'd hear people shouting "Hi Mzungu!" and smiling.  

Please click "Read More."    


I was very nervous getting off of the plane in Nairobi, and was filled with questions, fears, and excitement as I crossed south of the equator for the first time. All of my worries washed away the moment I arrived at International Guest House, in Nairobi.  The owner, Thomas, immediately put me at ease.  He was a student in the U.S. and started a hotel to help make travel to Kenya affordable for middle class westerners.  My room, that included a private toilet and shower was only $25/night.  Thomas has a positive outlook on life, and is optimistic for Kenya's future - he believes it is on the brink of taking off and becoming a fully developed country in the next 10 years.   

My time in Nairobi was fast and filled to the top with activity.  My first day was spent visiting the Nairobi National Museum, where I was able to learn more about the 47 Kenyan tribes, wildlife, as well as an exhibit that included Lucy's bones and many human skulls that have been used to develop the theory of human evolution.  As an anthropology undergraduate, this was a dream come true!  The museum also has a snake park, where my guide Ann, and I had a great time holding a nonpoisonous small boa.  After the National Museum, we visited the Giraffe Center, a nonprofit whose mission is the preserve the endangered species.  It was great fun - we were able to feed the giraffe's - one even licked my hand!  

In Nairobi, Kenya has a cultural center very similar to the Polynesian Cultural Center in Hawaii, called Bomas of Kenya.  Ann, Logan (another guide), the driver Steve, and I spent a few hours visiting the traditional huts and then watching the dances and fantastic costumes of the different Kenyan tribes.  The best dance was a mating dance, performed by a group of men- Kenyan school children fell out of their chairs dying of laughter during the performance.  From there, we headed over to Nairobi National Park to visit the Animal Orphanage.  Nairobi National Park is just 5 miles from the center of Nairobi, and is full of wildlife.  It's possible to do safari's right out of town!  The Animal Orphanage contains injured and abandoned animals, that are not able to survive in the wild.  It was fantastic to see so many lazy lions, albino zebras, barking hyenas, specked cheetahs, and chatty monkeys up close!      

The following day I visited Nairobi National Park again to do the Canopy Tour.  The Canopy Tour is a walking tour on a boardwalk built into the trees of the park, you watch the water buffalo, turtles and rhinos below you, and the monkeys, leopards, and birds above you.  The park is right on the edge of where the Wild Animal Park begins (where people go on safari), and there is a place to view of a watering hole, where the truely wild animals roam - I hear some visitors have witnessed crocodiles attacking water buffalo.  

From the National Park, Wilson, my driver, and I traveled to Mamba Village.  Mamba means crocodile, and it did not disappoint!  The village is a family-friendly tourist site to visit crocodiles, go paddle-boating and pet ostriches.  I was able to leave with a new crocodile necklace and a bruised finger from getting nipped by an ostrich.   
From Mamba village, we visited my favorite spot, Kazuri.  Kazuri means small and beautiful in Swahili, and is a bead-making business with a double-bottom-line: Kazuri's mission is to gainfully employ single-mothers while making a profit.  Women are taught a trade: to make clay, shape bead and dinnerware, fire and glaze the ceramics, string necklaces, bracelets, earring, and make handbags.  They then sell them for a profit at a shop on-site and at boutique shops around the world.  They are very successful in making profits, paying the women a good wage, providing them with healthcare, and affording them the opportunity to educate their children - it's a fantastic business model!  

A trip to Nairobi is not complete without a visit to The Karen Blixen House, the author of Out of Africa.  Prior to my visit, I had no idea that the book was an autobiography.  We visited her farm in Africa, that was on the foot of the Ngong Hills, and stopped for some coffee at her plantation.  

Tuesday, Thomas, International Guest House's owner, took me on a very special tour.  Nairobi has one of the largest slums in the world.  The slum neighborhood, Kiebera, contains over 700,000 residents (statistic from Carolina Clinic.) Because of the HIV/AIDs epidemic, a majority of Kiebera's population are children, with the eldest sister in the household raising her siblings.  I had the opportunity to be shown the neighborhood by an NGO making a significant difference in their community, Carolina.  (I was told to not take pictures while in Kiebera, but to hold the camera in my hand and push the button.) Carolina touches 500,000 lives, and treats over 150,000 patients a year.  They began as a basic health care clinic, that has grown into a 3-fold mission: physical, social and economic health.  The health clinic cares for physical needs, the sports programs care for social needs, and the recycling programs care for economic needs through producing income by making art from scrap (bone necklaces, wooden combs, plastic bracelets) as well as selling human waste (for soil nutrients in the agriculture sector including nitrogen and ammonia.)  They have very innovative programs, and in some ways, are more advanced than the U.S. with how they use technology to gather data and maintain patient records.  Carolina does amazing work, and is a ray of hope in a community that faces many challenges.

My final evening in Nairobi was spent at Carnivore, a meat-eater's paradise (with vegetarian selections for those who want to visit for the atmosphere.)  You can try every animal you have ever dreamed of eating: lion, gazelle, giraffe, snake, monkey.  Ann, Steve, and I visited the restaurant for a drink and to take in the atmosphere.  I will definitely be stopping-by here for a bite the next time I am in Nairobi! 
I am now in Kisumu, and have begun my internship with OGRA Foundation.  I'll give you the details of my latest adventures next week!  Kenya is a wonderful place!  

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International Guest House
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First meal in Nairobi
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At Uru Park, in front of the Nairobi skyline
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Lucy!!!! The missing link.
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A gecko, at the snake park
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Feeding giraffes at the sanctuary
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Ostrich Farm
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A traditional dance (note school-girl laughing in the background)
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Zebrule (Zebra & Mule)
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Albino Zebra
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Lazy Leopard
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Nairobi National Park Canopy Walk
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Kazuri bead artisan
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Kazuri bead glazing
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Kazuri bead stringing
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Karen Blixen's House
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Kiebera poverty (Senator Street, named after Barak Obama, when he visited as a U.S. Senator)
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Carolina in Kiebera
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Shops in Kiebera
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Ann, Steve and Serena at Carnivore
5 Comments
Nom
1/29/2012 10:12:02 am

What a dream come true! To see all those things you have studied for all these years. You are in my thoughts and in my prayers. Enjoy! Love the pictures. Keep posting it is so great to see what you are doing! Do you love the job? Nom

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veronica
1/29/2012 11:01:18 am

wow!what an adventure can't wait to read more next week keep changing the world cuz!

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Carl
5/1/2012 11:51:06 pm

I am so excited just reading what you got up to, it sounds like something I would love to try myself.

I have considered the trip but I keep getting told that I need to have so many vaccinations before thinking of visiting Kenya. I know yellow fever is a must, did you have to have a lot of vaccinations before heading to Kenya and if so which ones did you have?

This is very much once in a lifetime trip, thank you so much for sharing this with the world.

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Serena
5/2/2012 02:35:19 am

I'm glad you're enjoying it Carl! It's quite the experience.

You do need to get vaccinated (although no one has ever checked my vaccination card.) For the most part, you need the vaccinations your doctor recommends living in the west: hep A, hep B, meningitis, rabies and tetanus (all of which, you probably already have.) The only additional one is Yellow Fever, which we don't typically receive. Yeah, it hurt.

I HATE getting shots, but decided I wasn't going to let 5 minutes of freaking out get in the way of my lifelong dream of doing development work in Africa. It's worth it- you should do it. :)

Let me know if you end up in East Africa. :)

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hentai blog link
7/18/2012 07:59:26 am

Thanks to your blog, I'm gonna create one now too, thank you.

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